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  • Changing filters

    Hey buddy,
    Question for you. I think I need to change my filters in my RoDi unit I got from you. I was using it the other day and one of the canisters was slowly leaking. I thought maybe it was clogged.
    No seriously, how do I change them. I already own a set of replacement filters.

    Thank you,
    Corey

  • #2
    if you dont have the wrench u can use a belt to take the canisters off
    220 gallon display 60 gal farm tank 30gallon rimless acrylic frag 40gal refugium kessil a360w-e lighting reef 4ft geo skimmer looks like im going bigger?

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    • #3
      I have a wrench for a canister you can use.
      Adam

      35 gallon GEO mixed reef tank; 2 Kessil 160s; full apex and mp10.

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      • #4
        i am more asking if we need to flush out filters or canisters before we use them again?

        corey

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        • #5
          Gotcha!
          Adam

          35 gallon GEO mixed reef tank; 2 Kessil 160s; full apex and mp10.

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          • #6
            From our FAQ's on the website:
            A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water before it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

            Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

            Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

            The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

            If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

            The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 96% (i.e., they reject 96% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 16 ppm (a 96% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how “dirty” the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

            After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

            Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

            About initial rinse up of new filters:
            Sediment filter: no rinse up needed
            Carbon filters: about 5-10 minutes
            RO membranes: 10 minutes if dry, about an hour if shipped to you wet
            DI resin: about half a gallon for a 10" x 2.5" DI cart.

            Don't run the rinse water into other filters.

            Russ
            RODI Systems & Supplies www.BuckeyeHydro.com Info@BuckeyeHydro.com
            Dosing & Booster Pumps, 2-part additives, Salifert products, Solenoids, Phosphate Remover, Bulkheads, filter socks...

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            • #7
              Yep. Time to change filters. My order is on the way Russ. Thanks for the reminder.
              PEACE.....from Zeppelin

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              • #8
                Already got confirmation that the kit shipped. Now THATS service. :beer:
                PEACE.....from Zeppelin

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