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cyano blues

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  • cyano blues

    guys for some weird reason I am producing a ton of cyano I have made several water changes to no noticeable avail.

    I use a six stage ro/di filter all in good shape

    bulbs are older but not super old 7ish months or so

    I have a bunch of flow and no changes to that to equate to a sudden massive increase

    The bulbs could be the problem but I am just not sure: I do not use any sort of phosphate remover nor have I checked that value but with the large amount of water change going on I can not figure how I could have that much of a problem as to not be solved by dilution

    coral growth is about the same

  • #2
    I had an issue with cyano that i just solved (with the help of Aaron at Phishy) Turns out the pellet food i was using was loaded with phosphates. I quit feeding that and started running phosban in a geo reactor along with regular waterchange and one week later it is gone. I too was doing two wc per week to to avail. Look into the food but id run a nice ammount of gfo if i were you. Bulbs could be the issue as well but at 7 mos i doubt it


    • #3
      Yeah food was the first thing that came to mind for me too.


      • #4
        all Rods: original and breeders Nothing else

        not saying its not the food but Rod has such a good rep for quality that its hard to believe that is the source.

        maybe its a combination thing ?? food, bulbs, ???


        • #5
          Dave, frozen fish food is basically pure phosphates. Try cutting your feeding in half and see what happens. Reminder: One change at a time.


          • #6
            I had always read that Rods was much lower than most folks

            but I will take that advice for sure! Thanks guys,


            • #7
              Great article by Randy bout phosphates

              Actually cyanobacteria feeds on nitrogen and carbon. I'd just let it run it's course but you can turn your lights off for three days and try to manually siphon it out which will help.


              • #8
                I will have to wait until the weekend to read this as baseball has already begun and I am on the road driving my son from one town to the next LOL (actually really love it)

                Thank you in advance for the link: do you think that turning the lights off for the three days will be harmful to the corals???


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Hollback View Post
                  Dave, frozen fish food is basically pure phosphates. Try cutting your feeding in half and see what happens. Reminder: One change at a time.

                  Can I ask a question about this? If all frozen foods are wrought with phosphates, do you mean:

                  1. Retail, prepackaged frozen foods have a ton of phosphates, for whatever reason
                  2. Even, making your own food and freezing it will add phosphates to the tank when fed
                  3. That we should prefer/only feed dry food, or thus,
                  4. To avoid phosphates one should only feed live food

                  I wasn't aware of the phosphate issue with frozen food. I've always made my own food, but do supplement with pellets when I'm lazy.

                  I won the raffle for the Rod's food at the Frag Swap last year, and I was using Mantis' food a little here and there, and I've not seen any algae spike, but admittedly, I've not checked my phosphates for a couple months.

                  Thanks so much for your wisdom.

                  BTW: the pods I bought from you a couple weeks ago are thriving.


                  • #10
                    Great read, thanks for posting J!


                    • #11
                      you know my mini reef has gone through a bloom. I added gfo and picked up my water changes some. it took six weeks to get it under control, but it did work. the thing with controls like gfo is that it takes time to work. the breakout isn't going away overnight.


                      • #12
                        Rusty this kind of sums it up. It is taken from the article by Randy I linked to.

                        …the main point reefers need to understand: foods are the primarily source of phosphate in almost any aquarium that is being fed, regardless of the choice of foods and rinsing etc. In most aquaria, this source dominates all other sources by a factor of ten to a hundred or more...
                        Randy has some great charts in that thread that show the levels of frozen and dry foods.

                        I don't always rinse my frozen foods but I try to remember to. The problem with things like Rods is they have small particle size foods that get washed away.

                        Do some experimenting. If you reduce your feeding can you go longer before there are noticeable signs that it's time for a water change, like increased algae growth? The trick it to find that happy medium between how often to feed, how much to feed, and what types of foods to feed. That balance along with scheduled water changes is the key to keeping nutrient levels in check. I also feel that gauging frequency of how often I need to scrape my glass is another good sign. For the past 6 months or so I have been doing a 50 gallon water change and scraping my glass about every 4-6 weeks!


                        • #13
                          But again, cyanobacteria is a bacteria and is feeling on nitrogen and carbon and uses light to grow. So, take the light out of the equation. By removing the light, photosynthesis could not occur and the bacterial bloom regresses.

                          Dave, several days of no light won't cause any issues to your corals.

                          When I first got into the hobby I tried all kinds of things to battle cyano. To this day, I've found the best method is manual siphoning, high flow, and let it run it's course. It will eventually use up it's food source and crash. I'm not sure how much phosphates have anything to do with it. Are you doing any type of carbon dosing? Things like vodka, sugar, vinegar, or bio pellets will fuel the cyanobacteria.


                          • #14
                            thanks a bunch Jason, I shut off the lights yesterday afternoon and will do the siphon cleaning

                            no dosing or other pellet usage

                            I will also change our protocol in feeding today


                            • #15
                              Remember when you do the lights out treatment it must be COMPLETELY DARK in the tank. Do it for 3 days, 4 if the outbreak is bad and the corals will be fine.
                              Creativity is intelligence having fun.